Snakes, Frogs, and Crawdads

To Austin, Oregon -- 50.9 miles, 11.1 mph, 3200 ft -- Mon-Tues, July 3-4

There was some talk amongst the group yesterday of maybe skipping the full rest day in Baker City and instead heading out part way up the first pass. There are a total of six passes over the next 300 miles on the way to Eugene, the first three in quick succession within the first sixty miles. In the end, however, there was too much group inertia to move on. Laundry,  grocery shopping, a game of cards, ice cream, a visit to the local theater (Despicable Me 3), and a stop at the pizza parlor rounded out the full rest day's activities.

Today, on the other hand, we were determined to get an early start and carry extra water to avoid the suffering from Sunday. A few minutes after 7:00 we rolled out of the hotel parking lot. In a mile or so we were out of town and starting the gentle climb. The first summit came after thirty miles and thankfully Mother Nature was kind, it was warm but not hot and a light breeze cooled us once the serious climbing began.

It was one of those no-services days, so lunch consisted of sitting on the ground just off the main highway. We made due with the gravel and dirt, not because we wanted to but because it's the only option, and because after three hours or so it's a lot more comfortable than the bike seat. Fortunately, the softer seat I picked up in Great Falls has greatly improved my sore behind. Still, there’s nothing better than just getting off the bike for a while.

We called it quits after the second pass even though it was only 2:00. We would save the third pass for the cooler hours of tomorrow morning and then spend the afternoon slowly losing altitude in preparation for the next day's climb. I can definitely see how disappointed Lewis and Clark must have been after crossing the continental divide in Western Montana only to face a relentless series of mountain passes all the way to the Pacific.

The lovely Bates State Park, served as our campsite tonight, which to my surprise was completely empty except for the camp hosts and the nine of us. It is the Fourth of July after all, but then, we are kind of in the middle of nowhere. In addition to April, Kevin, Kirk and Sue, Bobby has decided to tag along for a few more days. We are happy to have him, he’s good natured, interesting, and has a good sense of humor. He admitted he doesn’t mind riding slower for a while -- my translation: he doesn't mind riding with us old folks!

Dex and Kylie had a field day in camp. First they ran through the sprinklers that were spraying the large grassy areas. Then, after hearing about a pond, ran off with fishing poles in hand. They were anxious to use some new lures that they were given for free the other day. We had stopped at Scotty’s Hell’s Canyon Shop and they were perusing the dozens of different fishing tackle. After asking the clerk what he would recommend to catch fish in the area, he handed them a half dozen different lures.

Snakes, frogs and crawdads were the young one’s focus for the rest of the day. Dex really has amazing eleven year old eyesight and both of them love to find and observe wildlife, whether mammals, birds, reptiles or bugs. I'm not sure Meg was very happy with the snakes, but I thought they were really pretty cool. It is amazing how they can zip along through the grass, plus these particular ones can swim. Homework has almost completely fallen to the wayside lately, which I worry a bit about. On the other hand, when I see them totally engaged in running around ponds and into creeks looking for animals, I take some solace in the fact that many kids these days never get a chance to play and explore like they have. I'm going to assume for now that it's a net positive in the learning department.

Hot, Hot, Hot

To Baker City, Oregon -- 54.0 miles, 10.7 mph, 3800 ft

A couple months ago we were dreaming of summer. Well, it’s certainly here now. The biggest issue today, was just that there was nowhere to stop over the last 42 miles and it was 90 degrees. As usual, we strategically planned the day to start with a climb -- 6 ½ miles up, 6 ½ miles down. And it was another bombing downhill -- 45 mph max!  Of course, it's an hour up and 10 minutes down. We huddled outside the market in Richland, unwilling to commit to going in the restaurant for fear we would linger too long as the temperature climbed.

Quick snack

Today, unfortunately, we would have a series of uphill steps and another four or five mile climb just ten miles from the end. For the first time since we met Bobby, he decided to ride with us as we left Richland. The first fifteen miles or so was fairly gradual in a dry, rugged canyon following the Powder River.

Meg and I somehow ended up in the lead today and got to the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center ten miles from town. We were almost completely out of water by then, covered in salt, and desperate for a way to cool off. The big bummer was that the museum sits at the top of a hill -- one mile and 370 feet away from the highway making for a stiff 7% average grade. No big deal in a car, but no small task on a loaded bike, especially after over 3500 ft of climbing in the baking sun. Meg and Dex quickly decided they had no interest in the museum. Besides, the rest of the group would hopefully be coming soon and might also decide to keep going.

Kylie and I slogged up the hill and soon learned by phone that, indeed, the rest of the team had arrived, out of water, and were anxious to finish the last nine miles to Baker City. By this time, Kylie was happily engaged in a kid’s museum workbook, and I was content to wander past the Oregon Trail dioramas in air-conditioned bliss. Once again the hardships of pioneer travel was driven home. One in ten Oregon trail travelers died from an array of causes -- accidental gunshots, children run over by wagons, drowning during river crossings, cholera, smallpox etc. Diary entries talk of passing dozens of fresh graves during a single day. When you realize that during the boom years 1849 to 1851, up to 60,000 pioneers attempted the journey every year, you really understand just how dangerous the trip was. The few military and fur trading outposts that existed were completely insufficient to supply or aid this many travelers.

Upon reaching Baker City, I was happy to hear that the group had settled into a small hotel. Although the Hoornaerts were slow to camp early in the trip, we’ve now completed ten nights in a row in our cozy, ten pound, nylon abode. I'm pretty sure everyone's legs, knees, and bums will appreciate a cycle free day, and that is the plan for tomorow.

Oregon!

To Halfway, Oregon -- 54.4 miles, 12.3 mph, 2975 ft

Oregon!  For decades, the sought after destination of tens of thousands of American pioneers. Fifty years after Lewis and Clark followed the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, Americans began the arduous journey west by covered wagons, mules and oxen in search of land, opportunity, and adventure. We are currently reading The Oregon Trail: A New American Journey about brothers that decided a few years back to retrace as much of the trail as possible -- Missouri to Oregon.

Today, as usual, we started the morning with a climb. Keeter and Patrice had been thwarted on their hike yesterday when they encountered mile after mile of roadway covered with “Mormon Crickets.” Apparently, they are actually a type of grasshopper, which we had the good fortune to see on the way up. The worst of the infestation appeared to be over so we only got to see a couple hundred. A lot of the group seemed to be grossed out by the little critters and, in particular, the fact that the ones still alive seemed to enjoy feasting on their less fortunate comrades.

A few "Mormon Crickets" on the roadway

After seventeen miles, we were at the top and ready for a screaming downhill for seven. This is where tandems totally rock. The same force that drags them back on the uphill, propels them downhill with a vengeance. We blasted by the slow poke, single riders hitting 40 mph on the way down.

Ready for the descent

Fortunately, the downhill dropped us off at a convenience store where we could eat and drink. The summer days are really heating up, so a couple hours later we gratefully took advantage of a quick plunge in the Snake River before starting the climb out of Hell’s Canyon.

Despite the quick swim, I was completely out of gas a few miles later. A few Cokes, some food and an hour off the bike seemed to work miracles. Kylie must have been feeling good too because we jammed up the road for the next fifteen miles. I suspect the cooling cloud cover may have helped a bit as well.

During the ride into Halfway, we enjoyed beautiful scenery of pine covered hillsides and idyllic farms all with the snow covered Wallowa range in the background. The RV park, just a quarter mile out of town wasn't much to look at, but had everything we needed -- bathrooms, shower, water, electricity, and tables.  And most importantly, when we arrived, shade!

For the first time in a week, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out. We walked the quarter mile into the quaint little downtown and to the surprisingly fancy The Main Place restaurant. Wine, salad, bread, pasta, shrimp and a healthy portion of mud pie for dessert. Delicious.