A Slow, Slow Slog

To Martigny, Switzerland -- 38.2 miles, 11.0 mph, 3625 ft (up, 6575 down)

There were a dozen positives for the start of today's ride -- it was clear and sunny, blue skies, temps in the high 60’s, just the hint of a breeze, smooth pavement, light traffic, and beautiful alpine scenery. It couldn’t have been better... but it was up. Up, up, and nothing but the aching-legs, shift-to-your-lowest-gear-and-never-leave-it sort of up. 

We had eaten downstairs, loaded the bikes, and started rolling at a respectable 9:45. I was conservatively imaging our triumphant arrival at the summit by no later than 1:00 p.m. This being Sunday, there were dozens of other cyclist speeding past on featherlight, carbon fiber bikes... and even more screaming, motorized "crotch rockets" racing by. 

View out of town

The scenery and iPod music kept us slowly grinding upwards for the first few miles. At mile five, we stopped to rest. Meg's stomach, unfortunately, was causing her grief (Meg's Note:  It wasn't a bad stomach as much as a nervous stomach and one that had been exercising for 1.5 hours, with at least that much to go....) At breakfast, she had already professed a whopping five percent interest in the day’s ride. (Meg's Note:  I was pooped from the day before and I knew we had much more to do today.)  Hmm, bad day to lose interest. Today would literally be the high point of our entire bike journey, 8100 ft.

Down the valley

Up the valley

At mile six, we left the trees behind and were soon hit with a frigid headwind. The clouds were swirling around the amazingly jagged peaks, and I had already added a long sleeve shirt, tights, and my rain jacket.

At nearly mile eight, we passed a tiny, shack on the barren hill. Meg made a beeline. The door was unlocked, the lights were on, and the Swiss version of hot chocolate -- think, Cadbury chocolate bar melted and poured into a cup -- was available. We took the opportunity to eat ham and cheese sandwiches (at least I did, no one else seemed much interested), the kids broke out their Kinder egg toys, and Meg, still shivering after the hot chocolate, hot milk, and a Coke Zero, put on a dry shirt.

By 2:15 p.m., the exertion was over, and we were greeted by a handful of cheers (Bravi!) and thumbs up from other cyclist and travelers walking by the still icy Lac du Gran San Bernardo. Presumably, the big dogs must come from around here.

Almost at the top

Great Saint Bernard Lake

The next 20 miles were a blissful, almost pedal free, return on our potential energy investment of the last couple days. We kept up with the cars and motorcycles on the windy down, marveling at the ease, then raced through a mostly straight, 3.5 mile long covered highway section in little more than six minutes. Awesome!  

An hour later, the grade had lessened. Meg and I stopped to refuel outside a closed gas station while Dex and Kylie dropped to the ground to play with their KinderEgg toys again. They have some elaborate game going where you flick your piece into your opponent’s to capture or exchange them. Kylie excitedly explained the rules to me at the start of the morning’s ride, but my thoughts and blood supply were elsewhere. 

The nondescript, little TCS campground was right in town (still going down) as we pulled in at 4:30. It was cool, sunny, and nice to be camping again. Dex and Kylie headed off to play mini-golf, while Meg and I tended to camp... and sat.

My legs are definitely as tired as they’ve been so far. We opted for a $50 dinner of tasty Kebab rollups and french fries while watching Germany beat Slovakia, 3-0. Ahh, much better. But, alas, we are out of the land of Gelato.