Settling into Stockholm

To Stockholm, Sweden -- Day 1

I finally did it! I actually got up and went for a run. The island is beautiful -- small roads and almost no cars. Everyone was a little suspect of my claim when talked later that morning, but the Lilla Getterö signpost was irrefutable proof.

We planned a slow morning knowing our train didn't leave until 12:32.  Bertil was ever the gracious host, getting us safely to the train station in Norrköping and making sure we knew exactly which train and platform we needed. Our stay on the archipelago with Bertil and Annika has been truly amazing.

Since our 2nd class E-tickets didn't list a seat or carriage number, we happily (and ignorantly) found a spot on a 2nd class car - with a table -- for the four of us. We learned later from the conductor that we should have gone to carriage 5 since we didn't have seats assigned, though we weren't sure how we were supposed to know this. No harm done, however, as it wasn't a full train and he said we could stay until someone booted us out (which never happened.)

A few hours later, it was really cool, as we zipped out of a tunnel in Stockholm and were suddenly over the water to see the famous, red-bricked city hall with the three golden crowns on top (symbol of Sweden). The Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset) is where the Nobel prize banquet is held each year and where I had visited 30 years ago (the hall, not the banquet!)

It was a pretty simple process finding our way from the train station to the Metro. European cities seem to be designed to make it easy for those without cars. The only problem we had was figuring out how to get the kids through the Metro turnstiles with their elevator-style sliding doors. We had bought just two 3-day passes since the kids are free. We tried rushing through the gates, but the second person (the adult) got smacked between the doors. Turned out, we had the right process but needed the special, wider gates that Dex spotted. The super long escalators were really cool too. Dex timed us at one and a half minutes to make it from bottom to top -- 150 steps, if you're not lazy and choose the moving ones.

Our hostel, The Belham, is conveniently situated right by the Stadshagen Metro stop and only a couple stations from the old town. It is, however, fairly drab, both inside and out. I think this is what would be called New Functionalism architecture, which Sweden is well known for. I think my (ugly) cement dorm in Lund would have qualified. The style is either simple, clean, and modern or cold, plain and uninspiring -- take your pick. We have two bunks in a simple room along a hallway with 20 other rooms. There is, however, a common room with tables, refrigerators, and small kitchen so we can eat some meals here...just not tonight.

We figured we'd make use of our Metro cards by heading out to explore Gamla Stan (Old Town) and get something to eat. Right near the Parliament building, as we were entering the old town, we passed a small protest by what looked like refugees. From the signs, we surmised it had something to do with a Swedish law passed on November 24th restricting the ability of asylum seekers to stay in Sweden -- one of our only glimpses of the ongoing refugee crisis in Europe.

Gamla Stan is a prime tourist area, so the kids were having a field day checking out the souvenir shops along the narrow, cobbled streets. We've tried to limit our souvenirs mostly to the country flag pins and a couple small bits of jewelry -- necklaces or bracelets for Kylie, which promptly fell apart. This keeps down on weight and expenses alike. I was surprised that Meg seemed mighty interested in new clothes, a pair of shoes, and a pedicure -- pleeease!  We’re supposed to be roughing it.

Two sweet Viking girls

We had a nice pasta and pizza dinner at Vapiano, a lively, modern restaurant (recommended by Bertil and Annika) where you can order your choice of pasta noodles and sauce and watch it being cooked right at the counter.  Dex had the closest thing he could find to Alfredo, which was the Carbonara -- mmm, mmm.  We still seem to think we've been biking all day and afterward found ice-cream, while Meg went for the $10 peanut butter brownie with caramel and whipped cream.  I'm told it was worth every cent.