Lion's Head

To Konigskop, South Africa

There were two major highlights today. The first was an early morning climb up Lion's Head peak. The second was briefly meeting a young migrant worker named Isaac. In between we picked up our incredibly fancy and well equipped 4x4 pickup, which would be our home for the next 13 days.

When I woke up at 6:15, I checked the window to find not a cloud in the just brightening sky. I checked with Meg, who graciously agreed to let me go to the top of the peak while she stayed put letting the kids snooze. With the help of an early morning Uber ride, I was on the trail by 6:50.

For me, this was definitely one of the highlights of South Africa so far. The trail starts as a fire road and spirals around the peak, first on the backside, then on the front facing the ocean, and then once more around the back, turning into a rocky narrow trail as you near the top and finally becoming a series of chains, ladders, and boulders for the last and steepest bit.  

It was an absolutely perfect morning. The sun was just peaking up over the horizon as I looped around and approached the backside.  Annie (from the night before) had said the view is more impressive than from Table Mountain, and I'm convinced she’s right. The amazing panoramas extend over the whole of Cape Town, Table Mountain, and the Atlantic as well. The sun cast a giant shadow of the peak over the ocean for almost the entire 40 minute assent. I'm sure Dex and Kylie would have loved scrambling up the huge rocky blocks. Once on top, I had the entire peak to myself, snapping photos and admiring the breathtaking vistas for 15 minutes. Outstanding!

For most of the late morning and early afternoon, we were busy checking out the Ford Ranger 4x4 that we’d have possession of for the next 13 days. I had wanted a Nissan or Toyota with two small pop up tents on top, but only the newer and more expensive Ford was available.  It would certainly do the job, but had the drawback of only a single rooftop tent that would accommodate two, while the second tent was a heavy canvas ground tent. Still, the entire rig is quite impressive -- there's a single burner stove attached to the tailgate, a large electric refrigerator with freezer compartment, solar panels on the roof, LED lighting, foldable table and chairs, huge awning, 80 liter water tank and extra fuel tank for a 1000 km range between fill ups. Wow. Cooking and eating utensils, bedding and towels were also included. Not too shabby. By the time Amos, the Avis representative, had reviewed everything with us (a three hour process), we were all ready for lunch, so stopped at the first Wimpy’s fast food spot on the way out of town.

Amos, from Avis

We then set our sights on the Cederberg Mountains. We were just following signs to a nearby campground off the main road when we passed a man hitchhiking.  Hands together, bowing as we approached, I couldn't help but stop. He explained in broken English that he was cold and only needed to go a short distance. Though we only had a couple miles left to the campground, we realized we could drive back much more easily than he could walk. I think he may have been surprised to find two kids in the back seat, but was very appreciative of the lift. We had trouble understanding exactly where he needed to go but did learn his name was Isaac. He was a farm worker from the Eastern Cape region, brought out from Cape Town to work in the Orange groves tucked into the beautiful craggy hills. He had apparently heard that there was work just down the road on a potato farm. Along the way, we offered some food, which he accepted with a simple yes. The total trip turned out to be a full 15 km, quite a hike just as the sun was setting and with the threat of rain.

Once at the farm, I asked to take his picture. He quickly pulled down his jacket hood and assumed a serious expression, perhaps unaccustomed to photos. Then, a minute later, just as we were pulling away, he turned around and ran back up the road calling out that he would like his picture taken to California and hoped to one day to make it there.

I think we were all struck with what a kind, genuine, and thankful person he was. Clearly, we were much more fortunate than he, yet he seemed content with his lot in life and, like so many of the other South Africans we'd met, was surprising grateful, gracious and optimistic.