LaLa's Long Tuk-Tuk Ride

Agra, (and Fatepur Sikra), India -- Day 2

Today, we thought we would explore the ancient, royal city of Fatepur Sikra. We had the breakfast buffet at the simple downstairs restaurant. My taste buds still don't seem totally right, but at least I'm feeling hungry these days.

Lala, the happy faced, diminutive tuk-tuk driver, seemingly permanently stationed outside the hotel, was anxious to take us wherever we wanted, and Fatepur Sikra was no problem. We've learned now that you should always settle on a price before starting, but Ali was reluctant saying we should decide and we should pay whatever we like. We persisted, however, so he eventually threw out a figure (1200 rupees), and we agreed.

The journey there and back, turned out to be no short excursion taking more than an hour each way. Tuk-tuk trips, though, are usually fun, at least when we don't have our four big backpacks on our laps and wedged in behind our heads and shoulders. We generally sit three in back and one (usually Dex) in front next to the driver. The other day, we saw no fewer than eight people crammed into one, plus a young boy hanging onto the back. When we were in London and Paris with little Cole, he would always point out the “Bad Guys,” bikers or motorcycle riders without helmets. Here in India we see and awful lot of Bad Guys on bikes and motorcycles. It is totally normal to see women sitting side saddle behind their husbands, a young child in their arms and a second young child straddling the gas tank.

Almost as interesting as the actual old city, was just watching the world pass by along the way. The kids never get tired of pointing out the various animals: henna donkeys (white donkeys stained with orange blotches of henna), “baby” animals -- small cows, water buffalos, puppies -- not to mention the occasional group of monkeys.  On a couple occasions during the trip the road inexplicably deteriorated into a jumble of asphalt and rocks. It's amazing how durable the tuk-tuks are. Many are actually CNG (compressed natural gas) powered, which is a good thing given the ever present grey/brown haze along the horizon.

For much of the way, we were traveling through small towns outside of the city. It is mesmerizing to gaze out at the brick and cement structures, literally crumbling, stalls and huts built with whatever is available, old pieces of wood, plastic tarps, corrugated metal sheets, and chunks of cement. So much seems to be in a constant state of construction or repair. Shops and workshops for pipes, bricks, motorcycle repair, haircuts, and food appear randomly.  

Dex buying a pomegranite

Shoe delivery

Once again, at the tourist site, we waved off the salesmen and tour guides.  Lala, our driver, happily agreed to wait as we took the crowded bus up the road to the entrance, where even more guides and postcard salesmen waited. We opted for the audio guides again though the sounds quality and player function left a lot to be desired. The city was started in 1569 by Mughal emperor Akbar. Akbar was particularly accepting of all the major religions and many of the architectural details pay tribute to Hindu, Islam and even Christianity. Unfortunately, the spring that provided water to the city dried up and the city was abandoned in 1585.

We finished off our tour at the large Mosque, once again forced to wave off would-be tour guides. Even our expired entrance tickets, apparently, were in demand. Our patience was finally worn thin when attempting to get back on the bus to our starting point. Twice, we were literally shoved out of the way, and forced to wait in the heat for the next bus. Fortunately, this has not been the norm, though I was not particularly patient with the salesman that came up to us a few seconds later.

True to his word, Lala was there when we returned to the tuk-tuk several hours later. All of us enjoyed some cold beverages and then the long ride back to the hotel.