15,000 ft and Climbing

To Dughla, Nepal -- 4620m (15,150ft)

My sore throat from a couple days ago has turned into a never-ending runny nose.  Good thing I brought a handkerchief.  I actually slept better than the night before, and everyone else seemed to have slept well too.  Unfortunately, this morning we needed to say goodbye to Kevin and Craig. Hopefully, we'll meet up again in Gorakshep, assuming we both stay to schedule.  The lodge owners are always good to us and we've almost started to expect a candy bar from the lodge owners (for the "babees"). Dex also scored a used metal walking stick to replace his wooden stick.

As expected, it is getting colder and colder.  This morning during the first half hour of the hike, Kylie was grumpy as she just couldn’t get her feet to warm up.  Fortunately, we came across a friendly dog to take her mind off them.  

"Grumpy, Cold Feet"

New friend

We also passed some neatly placed, rectangular piles of rocks just over the ridge from Dingboche. The previous lodge owners spoke particularly good English, so we were able to ask what they were since we’d seen them a couple days ago.  Apparently, they are for sale and they are stacked in neat geometrical piles because they are sold by volume.  Once a platform is purchased, it is moved rock by rock to where it is needed.  The rocks used for lodges, however, must be chipped to very exact dimensions, which can take a full day and apparently cost Rs 2000 ($20) each.  In the lower valley, hydroelectric power is available.  Here, however, they make due with pricey solar panels. Everything ends up 3 or 4 times more expensive once it is carried up the valley.

Rock piles for sale!

The food has also become more expensive as we go up.  A plate of rice, noodles, or potatoes that started at $3 in Lukla is now $5.  Still, so far we’ve been under the $35 per person per day we were told to budget for.  We can splurge on extra apple pies, pizza, and soda on the way back down... maybe even a hot shower!

As I sit here, huddled around the dung-fired stove, I’ve got four layers on top, two on bottom, a hat, scarf and fleece gloves.  I pulled out my enormous down, rental jacket the other night while playing cards in our room.  Today there was a breeze blowing and ice in the stream and river crossings. I was surprised to hear from the lodge owner, however, that hikers come through all winter long.  I was thinking November would be it.  Sounds like the Himalaya are as dry as they are high, with little snowfall.  

We passed a few big tour groups today.  One for the UK had 34 people.  As usual, they were impressed to see Dex and Kylie shouldering their packs.  This group was on a 19-day tour, but as a result they were going to do in the next two days, what we planned to do in four.  Today we only hiked three hours (8-11 a.m.) but are now higher than anywhere in the continental US at over 15,000 feet.  

Lunch time

Sleeping quarters

I’ve been trying to go on a couple hour hike each day to help with acclimatization.  Usually, though, I just end up with a dull headache at the base of my skull.  For the first time today, Meg decided to take one of the altitude pills we’d brought along.  I’m still debating.  

Nepal, like most of the countries we’ve traveled to, has adopted English as the official language of tourism.  If you’re from Germany, Spain, Russia or Japan, you better know some English to get a room and buy some Dal Bhat.  We certainly lucked out in that regard -- makes it pretty convenient for us lazy Americans.