We're Off

To Phakding, Nepal -- 2610m (8,560ft)

As has been the case everyday so far, we woke to clear skies and beautiful morning light on the snow covered peaks to the west. We packed up our stuff in preparation for our first full day of hiking with our packs. Dex’s energy level was still pretty low, but we gave him an ibuprofen and after some hot chocolate and scrambled eggs, he seems almost back to normal. We finished off our latest Hearts game with me losing spectacularly. Somehow, Meg figures I'm always the target!

We got to the runway just as Craig and Kevin’s Tara Air flight flew in. It's great to see them. They both seem a bit tired after one fifteen and another five hour flight yesterday, plus a short night in Kathmandu. Although Meg tried to warn them, they followed our lead and stayed at the API Hotel -- Craig admits that despite his low standards, it was not very impressive.

Craig and Kevin flying in

We spent the first couple hours helping Craig and Kevin get organized -- exchanging money, checking into TIM cards, and grabbing some breakfast. As soon as we started walking, there was a bottle neck at the Tourist Police check point.  Since there was only one guy hand writing passport numbers and copying info into a paper ledger, it took a while.  At 11:00, we were finally off.

Kevin

Craig

Well, the area has definitely been built up over the last twenty years. The trail in many sections has been paved with big flat stones and lined with stone walls. That makes it a little tricky to get out of the way, however, when a yak train comes by. There are also a ton more lodges. On this first part of the trail, you probably don't have to go more than a ¼ or ½ mile between tea houses. In addition to the yak trains, there are frequent processions of sherpas carrying incredible loads. They have huge, V-shaped wicker baskets with loads four feet wide and towering two feet above their heads. We’ve been told typical loads are 80 lbs but can be as much as 100 kg (220 lb)!  We saw porters carrying boxes and boxes of supplies for the hundreds of lodges up the valley -- Coke, jars of mayonnaise, juice, rice, cooking oil….  The giant baskets, supported with a wide strap over their heads, dwarf normal backpacks and can easily hold two or three full sized ones. Often they carry large wooden T-handle that doubles as a walking stick and support for the basket when they stop to rest. Makes me feel fortunate to only have 35-40 lbs to carry.

Typical Sherpa load

Unlike the last couple days when clouds started to form on the highest peaks around 1:00, today was cloudless the whole day through. It was great to catch up with Craig and Kevin. Craig was unexpectedly let go from his med-tech job in September. Except for the reduction in cash flow he seemed to really be enjoying the extra free time filling it with house projects, extra workouts, and lunches with friends.

Today, it was Kevin's turn to feel under the weather. Fortunately, this first day was a net down, so we all did well. Once in Phakding, around 4:00, we had a little trouble deciding where to stay. We wandered up the stone “road” for a while and finally picked a nondescript lodge on the river side, hoping for river views (which we didn't get.). On the plus side, there’s a bathroom with toilet in the room, though if you want to wash your hands, you need to go into the low-roofed, dark and cluttered kitchen with wood and propane fired stoves.

Craig was anxious to do some additional hiking, so he and I left soon after to find the trail up to the monastery on the other side of the river. It feels great to get some exercise again after so much time driving in Africa and the busy and congested towns of India. Tomorrow will be our first big test as we will need to climb over 3000 ft. to the biggest town in the Khumbu, Namche Bazaar.

Large monastery prayer wheel

Nervous and Excited

Lukla, Nepal -- Day 2 -- 2840m (9320ft)

It’s Kylie here today. This morning, we had a small breakfast, which I didn't enjoy very much (the pancakes were not very good). On the plus side, though, Mom’s head was feeling much better, and that put everyone in a much happier mood.

Our room -- No 108

Technically a dzopke, not a yak

Some friendly dogs that hang out near our hotel decided to follow us on the same trail as yesterday to where Dex and I stopped to play with Monster and Nipper. Unfortunately, they then saw some other hikers and left to follow them, and we haven't seen them since. We hiked another half an hour then it was Dex’s turn to feel sick, so Mom stopped with him while Dad and I kept going. As we continued to go up, I spotted deer droppings. I started looking, but had no luck seeing their footprints.

A new friend

When we got back to the lodge, Dex rested and the rest of us had lunch. Afterwards, we encouraged Dex to join us at a nearby German bakery we had seen. It happened to be terrible, our pastries looked great but were dry and not sweet. Afterwards, though, we all got “buffs” (neck scarves) to keep dust out of our mouths and noses. Tomorrow, Craig and Kevin will join us, and the first day of the hike begins. I'm a little nervous but also excited to see familiar faces.

Lukla down below

Glorious Blue Skies

Kathmandu (Day 2-4) to Lukla, Nepal -- 2840m (9,320ft)

Today was totally awesome. Finally, glorious blue skies, sunshine, and crisp alpine air. It is so nice to be in the mountains, and the Himalaya no less!

We finally got ourselves out of Kathmandu after four days. As usual we used the first few days in our new country to plan and get organized. We were a little more schizophrenic about our plans this time as we were holding out hope that my older brother, Don, could join us. Unfortunately, despite being retired, he had real commitments with friends and family (Thanksgiving, for example) that just made it impossible.  

In the meantime we considered a couple different trekking options, either the full Annapurna circuit (~18 days), or two shorter hikes -- the much less popular, but still spectacular Langtang Valley hike closer to Tibet (~8 days) followed by the Annapurna Sanctuary hike (~10 days). It wasn't until two days ago, Thursday afternoon, while Meg and I were sitting at the Pumpernickel Cafe across from our basic hotel, that we made the final decision. We had not  seriously considered the Everest base camp hike since I had already done it. However, we had just learned that two good friends, Craig and Kevin, decided to go through with their Nepal trip and would be arriving a few days later on the 7th. Although they would be doing a more adventurous (I.e., strenuous) Three Passes hike over 3 ½ weeks, the first few days would be the same and the prospect of seeing them tipped the scales.  

Whew, at least we had made a decision and could finish our planning! Now we just needed plane tickets to Lukla (the 9300 ft high start point); park entrance passes; TIMS cards (Trekking Information Management System); and money!

In line for hiking permits

Lots and lots of cash!

And lots and lots of chocolate!

The latter item -- money -- turned out to take us almost four hours yesterday during which time we visited five offices at four different bank locations and called our bank twice. ATMs have served us well during most of our world trip. Here in Nepal we were warned about using our credit cards and most transactions are done in cash (rupees or, preferably, dollars if you have them). Unfortunately, with our gear purchases, permits, plane tickets etc, we've been using a lot of cash and every single day, one or both of our ATM cards have been locked for suspected fraud, i.e., our frequent and repeated ATM withdrawals!

Since we planned to head into the mountains for three weeks, we needed enough rupees for food and lodging for 21 days. Conservatively, we've been told to allow up to $35 per person per day. That works out to a couple giant stacks of 1000 and 500 rupee notes or about 300,000 rupees ($2,800)! We spent almost four hours walking around town on Friday trying to find a bank that could give us a cash advance using our ATM cards. At 2:15, we finally found a bank that could do the transaction only to find that, after the successful transaction with my card, Meg’s card was locked... again! This was extremely frustrating given the fact that we had just called Schwab the day before (and the two days before that) to unlock them, had spent three hours walking to four different banks, and now had 45 minutes before the bank would close for the weekend!  Long story short, we got the card unlocked and the needed stack of bills, but not without a lot of angst and fretting along the way.

Getting to Lukla today, however, was its own adventure and a ton of fun. We left the hotel before 7:00 and had a few minor panic attacks when we first thought that we should have been in the international terminal, not the domestic, and then again soon after when we couldn't find anyone at the Sita check in counter even though we were less than an hour from departure. (Deep breaths.) We finally found the Sita office and the nice young woman there assured us someone would be there soon and we wouldn't miss the flight. Since it turned out she was the woman that showed up at the counter, I understood why she was so confident.

In any event, we did eventually get checked in and into the waiting area where we met a delightful couple from Bristol, England just embarking on a 9 month world tour. Andy and Charlie seemed a little nervous about what lay ahead, but had the support of a guide to help smooth out the rough spots.

The plane ride here was great fun. We climbed aboard a small, twin engined, 15 passenger plane for the half hour flight to Lukla. Although the plexiglass windows were crazed around the edges and mine was warped and scratched, the views were still awesome flying out of the city and into the green tree covered foothills. For at least the first 20 minutes, despite increasing ruggedness of the hills, every bit of land not covered with trees was beautifully terraced. Dirt roads zig zagged along the hillsides and ridges with metal roofed, stone structures dotting the slopes. On the left side of the plane, looking north were the jagged snowy peaks of the Himalaya.  So cool. As we neared Lukla we were just barely skimming over the hilltops. Though I was in the back row, I could just see out the front cockpit window. Only mountainside was visible as we plunged onto the short inclined runaway.

After finding a basic $2 room at the Tara Lodge, we grabbed some food and headed out of town. The only goal was to walk and walk up. I doubt many of the thousands of trekkers that pass through here ever set foot on this particular trail as it leads away from Everest, but it was spectacular nonetheless. There were at least four towering, snow capped peaks, all at least 6000 meters (almost 20,000 ft) high -- puny by Himalayan standards, but huge, jagged and breathtaking by any other measure. I had forgotten how colorful the stone structures are with brightly painted doors and windows, not to mention the colorful prayer flags fluttering against the sky. It felt awesome to get out on the trail especially after the weeks and weeks in the crazy chaos of crowded, noisy, and smoggy Indian cities.

Unfortunately, Meg's headache that had started In Kathmandu was throbbing, and after an hour she decided to return to the lodge for a nap. Headaches are one of the early signs of altitude sickness, so we all are trying to drinks lots of iodine treated water. The good news is that we are planning to be here at 9300 ft for two full days before heading along the trail. Better yet, the first stop along the trail is actually no higher than Lukla giving us three full days before ascending the grueling three thousand feet to Namche, the biggest town in the region. I can hardly wait.

Ka Ka Ka Ka Kathmandu

To Kathmandu, Nepal -- Day 1

Hey, all; Meg here.  I realize I'm dating myself, but ever since arriving here, I've had the Bob Seger song in my head.   "I think I'm going to Kathmandu, that's really really where I'm going to."  It's been great being here.  I think it is India-light.  There are still lots of shops, people, traffic and incense burning, but it is on a smaller, quieter, easier scale.  The architecture is different, the sky is bluer and the air is cooler and drier.

We've spent the past day reviewing the items we have, and the items we need.  Today we were still getting our gear together.  Both Dean and I thought we had a good head start on alpine gear, considering we'd been traveling in the mountains on our bikes already, but in the course of our travels, we've lost items, worn out items or simply thought we'd not need it.  But, faced with the crazy-high elevations and the fact that it is November, we are taking the cold and snow seriously. The kids, especially, were without some of the alpine gear.  All along we said we could supply ourselves in Nepal as there are lots of stores that sell knock-off brands.  Boy howdy, that is no joke!

So this morning, prior to a yummy breakfast at the New Orlean's Cafe, we made a quick purchase of some yak-bone good luck necklaces (in Sanskrit), and after a great start to a Heart's game (thank you necklace), we headed out to complete the list.  We have purchased gloves, sunglasses, synthetic shirts, fleece pants, down jackets, tights, hats, replaced Kylie's lost sleeping bag, replaced Dean's ancient hiking boots, had synthetic pants made for the kids and, most wonderful of all, I had our stinky, dirty clothes laundered!  Life is very good and much better smelling, if I do say so.

One major item not purchased, which is a show-stopper, are the permits to go on any trek in Nepal. There is an outside chance that Don, Dean's older brother, may join us here in Nepal.  Don has spent his entire summer on the Appalachian Trail, covering the northern half of the historical route.  With that in mind, Dean invited Don out and we are thrilled he is considering it.  But, it also means that we are in a bit of a holding pattern and have decided that we should stick around Kathmandu while things get put into place.  We are looking into the Langtang Valley Trek, which is closer, lower and shorter than our original thought of doing the Annapurna Circuit.  The trek descriptions sound amazing, though the valley was hard hit in the 2015 earthquake.  A number of reports seem to say the tea houses are open for tourists, and in fact that tourists are needed to help the area recover.  It's hard to know what the actual state of things are and what the distances could be once we are on the trail. We've talked to a number of people in town and many want to have us hire a jeep to get to the start of the hikes, but with busses that run there, we think we'll take the public option.  Too bad we can't do it by tuk tuk.  If Don can join us, we'll make our way toward the Annapurna area and do another trek, which also promises to be beautiful.  We all have our fingers crossed that it works out for Don to join us.  What a treat that would be!

One of the few tourist sights we've seen is the Swayambhunath "Monkey" Temple just a 30 minute walk from the hotel.  Half the fun is just experiencing the narrow streets and back alleys along the way.  The monkeys were pretty cool too.

In the meantime, with all the shopping that has been happening, the kids have had a chance to have a little free reign.  They've spent time playing with their new travel chess board, purchased for 500 Nepalese Rupees, which equates to $5.  Actually, that is something that has been surprising for all of us.  People have been asking us to pay in US dollars.  They don't believe us when we say we don't have any.  We've been away from home for over 5 months, so that ship has sailed....

We've enjoyed being in a touristy area.  We've had yummy meals, great french fries, and ice in my Diet Coke.  Despite the creature comforts, I think we are all excited at the thought of getting out into nature and to really seeing the surrounding area.  Every now and then, when we are walking around town, we'll catch sight of some snow capped monster peak that makes us all want to get out of here and head into the mountains.  I think we're ready.  It's really, really where we want to be.