We're Off

To Phakding, Nepal -- 2610m (8,560ft)

As has been the case everyday so far, we woke to clear skies and beautiful morning light on the snow covered peaks to the west. We packed up our stuff in preparation for our first full day of hiking with our packs. Dex’s energy level was still pretty low, but we gave him an ibuprofen and after some hot chocolate and scrambled eggs, he seems almost back to normal. We finished off our latest Hearts game with me losing spectacularly. Somehow, Meg figures I'm always the target!

We got to the runway just as Craig and Kevin’s Tara Air flight flew in. It's great to see them. They both seem a bit tired after one fifteen and another five hour flight yesterday, plus a short night in Kathmandu. Although Meg tried to warn them, they followed our lead and stayed at the API Hotel -- Craig admits that despite his low standards, it was not very impressive.

Craig and Kevin flying in

We spent the first couple hours helping Craig and Kevin get organized -- exchanging money, checking into TIM cards, and grabbing some breakfast. As soon as we started walking, there was a bottle neck at the Tourist Police check point.  Since there was only one guy hand writing passport numbers and copying info into a paper ledger, it took a while.  At 11:00, we were finally off.

Kevin

Craig

Well, the area has definitely been built up over the last twenty years. The trail in many sections has been paved with big flat stones and lined with stone walls. That makes it a little tricky to get out of the way, however, when a yak train comes by. There are also a ton more lodges. On this first part of the trail, you probably don't have to go more than a ¼ or ½ mile between tea houses. In addition to the yak trains, there are frequent processions of sherpas carrying incredible loads. They have huge, V-shaped wicker baskets with loads four feet wide and towering two feet above their heads. We’ve been told typical loads are 80 lbs but can be as much as 100 kg (220 lb)!  We saw porters carrying boxes and boxes of supplies for the hundreds of lodges up the valley -- Coke, jars of mayonnaise, juice, rice, cooking oil….  The giant baskets, supported with a wide strap over their heads, dwarf normal backpacks and can easily hold two or three full sized ones. Often they carry large wooden T-handle that doubles as a walking stick and support for the basket when they stop to rest. Makes me feel fortunate to only have 35-40 lbs to carry.

Typical Sherpa load

Unlike the last couple days when clouds started to form on the highest peaks around 1:00, today was cloudless the whole day through. It was great to catch up with Craig and Kevin. Craig was unexpectedly let go from his med-tech job in September. Except for the reduction in cash flow he seemed to really be enjoying the extra free time filling it with house projects, extra workouts, and lunches with friends.

Today, it was Kevin's turn to feel under the weather. Fortunately, this first day was a net down, so we all did well. Once in Phakding, around 4:00, we had a little trouble deciding where to stay. We wandered up the stone “road” for a while and finally picked a nondescript lodge on the river side, hoping for river views (which we didn't get.). On the plus side, there’s a bathroom with toilet in the room, though if you want to wash your hands, you need to go into the low-roofed, dark and cluttered kitchen with wood and propane fired stoves.

Craig was anxious to do some additional hiking, so he and I left soon after to find the trail up to the monastery on the other side of the river. It feels great to get some exercise again after so much time driving in Africa and the busy and congested towns of India. Tomorrow will be our first big test as we will need to climb over 3000 ft. to the biggest town in the Khumbu, Namche Bazaar.

Large monastery prayer wheel