To Namche, Nepal -- 3440m (11,280ft)
Today is Election Day back home -- Clinton vs. Trump. The election has come up from time to time during the last five months when someone has learned we are Americans. I remember one charismatic street vendor in Cape Town goading me with, “You like Trump! You like Trump!” When I finally understood what he was saying, I assured him Trump was not my man. Though I understand it is still a neck-and-neck race, if the comments I've heard from Europe, Africa, and India are any indication, much of the rest of the world is clearly leaning towards Clinton... or at least away from Trump.
We've had half a dozen meals here so far, and the good thing is the staple meals of fried noodles, fried rice, and fried potatoes usually result in a heaping plateful. I felt bad last night when at least half the food was still left on our collective plates. The lodge owners, however, assured us that the dogs and cows would take care of it.
Today's hike was very, very long. On the plus side, the views were once again stunning and the skies crystal clear.
We amused ourselves early in the day by coming up with Himalayan Haikus.
Thin air, breathing hard
Soaring peaks, amazing views
Hiking in Nepal
Distant yak bells ring
Plodding up the rocky trail
Get out of the way!
Fuel for going up
Lots of calories each day
Veg fried potatoes
In addition to beautiful views, the day’s hike featured five crossings of the river on steel cable suspension bridges, the last of which was at least 250 ft. above the river. The bridges are wide enough for either a loaded yak or two normal backpackers to pass. As a result, it was interesting to watch two eager Sherpas with 4 ft. wide loads try to pass a couple loaded yaks.
Kevin still wasn't feeling great, so he kept a slow, steady pace. We'd thought about waiting to eat lunch until Monjo -- where Craig and Kevin would get their hiking permits -- however, by the time it was 12:30, the kids were pretty hungry. Kevin and Craig agreed to stop, and we all got variations of fried potatoes, fried rice and fried noodles.
Although we were expecting the 3000 ft. climb to Namche to start soon after lunch, it was at least 2:30 before we finally left the Duhd Kosi river and started the relentless climb, up through the trees, to the top of the hill. Kevin's hip, unfortunately is bothering him, and I think his stomach still isn't right either. At one point I let Kylie go on ahead with Craig while I waited at the bridge for Kevin, Meg and Dex. Unfortunately, a little ways ahead, the trail forked with wide stone steps going up to the right and a smaller, dirt trail to the left along the river. The porters we asked said the river route was shorter, plus that happened to be the the route Kevin had already chosen. The only rub was, we didn't know which way Craig and Kylie had gone. Forty-five minutes later, though after 20 minutes of strenuous up, the trails joined and we were all reunited. Although it was only 3:30, we were already in the shadows, so we all put on extra layers and tromped across the last of the bridges, this one towering a hundred feet above what was apparently the old bridge.
Lunch stretches |
The trail -- rocky, windy, and steep -- wound up through the trees. Half way up, having just finished our second giant chocolate bar, Meg and I pulled some heavier items from Dex and Kylie's packs as insurance for making it to the top.
At 5:30, we finally made it into the large hillside town of Namche Bazaar. Wow, this place has changed in twenty years. We walked along the main uphill stone street, lined with souvenir and clothing shops, groceries stores, bakeries, pizza places, coffee shops and bars!
We shunned the “Family Lodge” after viewing the available single room with barely room to stand. Continuing the uphill march, we finally chose the Sherpa Village Lodge, heavily influenced by the fantastic smells wafting from the homey, wood paneled restaurant.
We both praised the kids for sticking with it. They definitely weren't happy for some of the climb, but considering this was only the second day they had ever hiked with their packs, ten miles ending up at 11,300 ft. was a pretty good day's work.
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