Getting Ready to Ride

To Sudbury, Massachusetts -- Sat-Sun, April 29-30

Late Friday afternoon, after bowling and ice cream, Geraldine kindly drove us out to Sudbury, 25 miles east of Boston. Just eleven months ago, we had also stayed with both sets of friends, just in the reverse order as we are now heading west.  We had met Glenn and Terry during our last Cycle Oregon ride in 2015.  As they also ride a Co-Motion tandem, we immediately had something in common, plus, they were absolutely fantastic with Dex and Kylie, chatting with them, asking them questions, reliving episodes of Myth Busters….  They generously invited us to visit if ever we were in the area, and this will make visit number two. Last year, before our departure for Madrid, they had offered to store our bikes for us in case we really decided to tackle a trans US trip this summer… and here we are.

Terry taking a brake in the sun room

We had hoped that Glenn and Terry might be able to join us for the initial section of our ride -- east from their house through Massachusetts and into New York.  Unfortunately, the timing didn’t work out, and even worse, Glenn already had a retreat planned with some friends for this weekend, meaning we didn’t get to see him at all until just tonight.  Still, Terry made us feel right at home and happily accommodated our need to finalize our bike trip preparations: reorganize all our gear, transfer stuff from our backpacks into the bike panniers, reassemble the bikes, and ship all remaining items home -- bike suitcases, backpacks, heavy things etc.  Our Co-Motion tandems with S&S couplers are fantastic, but it’s no small task dismantling and reassembling two of them.

Yellow bike in process

Test ride

While Meg and I were consumed with these tasks, Terry took Dex and Kylie on a hike through the nearby forest and wetlands.  We also had a chance to play some more board games, always a favorite pastime with us.

Snapping turtle, rescued from the back yard

As luck would have it, another friend of ours, who we met years ago playing indoor soccer, also lives “nearby” in Connecticut.  We had never had a chance to meet her wife, Colleen, or three year old son, Baylen, so when she offered to drive out to see us, we checked with Terry, who, of course, graciously agreed.  We spent the afternoon catching up, while snacking and eating lunch on the enclosed porch.  Baylen is a total doll and seemed to enjoy his time with the big kids, especially his “girlfriend,” Kylie.

Tonight, we enjoyed a wonderful pasta dinner and celebrated us all being together, now that Glenn is back.  We are truly fortunate to have so many awesome friends. Glenn checked over our intended route, eagerly describing alternate paths, and both he and Terry listed a dozen historical sights and side trips to keep us busy along the way.

Kylie, Meg, Terry, Glenn, and Dex

The bikes are put back together and seem to be working.  I’m sure the fact that we haven’t been on the bikes for over nine months, won’t make a difference!  Here goes nothing!

Hello USA

To Milton, Massachusetts -- Wed-Fri, April 26-28

It was a little odd to realize we were actually back in the US.  Our flight landed at 4 a.m. in Miami. Fortunately, the entry process was relatively painless, at least for citizens.  We scanned our passports, got our pictures taken, and received black and white printouts at the automated stands with all our pertinent details.  One more short plane hop and we were in Boston.

Back in the good ol' US of A

Our good friends, the Sutters, graciously offered to let us stay at their house while in the area.  In fact, they insisted on it.  Our dismantled bikes are actually 40 miles away with other good friends waiting to be put back together.  It has been incredibly nice to see Geraldine, Jed and their twin boys, Cole and David again.  Meg met Geraldine and Jed while biking across the country way back in '98 during the “Big Ride.”  The cross-country bike ride, starting in Seattle and ending in Washington D.C., was a fundraising event sponsored by GTE with over 700 riders. It was this event, and, more specifically, a half dozen California riders, that convinced Meg to move out to the Bay Area and leave her life in Texas behind.

The last couple days have flown by.  We’ve been able to catch up on the latest going-ons here. Unfortunately, the Sutters have had their share of bad luck lately.  In the span of just two years, they have suffered two fires at their two-story, New England style home.  The first started in the basement and the second in their recently added first-floor bathroom.  In addition to the actual loss of possessions, the incredibly slow and bureaucratic process of dealing with the insurance companies is something I hope never to have to experience.  In the meantime, however, they have secured a beautiful home to rent nearby until the detailed accounting, fault assessment, payment, and reconstruction process is once again complete.

Geraldine and Jed were anxious to welcome us back to the States and treat us to anything we might have missing during the year.  For dinner on Wednesday, they satisfied our hankering for burritos. Believe it or not, a Chipotle burrito was one of the few things we really missed. Of course, for Meg, doing without cold Diet Coke, was often a struggle, so Geraldine made sure it was free-flowing.  

Yesterday, the Sutter boys played hooky from school (shh) and we all, Jed included, went out for the afternoon showing of Disney’s remake of The Beauty and the Beast.  Having never seen the animated version, I thought it was fantastic -- the acting, scenery, special effects, the songs, and dancing… and, of course, Emma Thompson is not hard to look at either.  This was followed up by an outstanding meal at Legal Seafood.  What could be better -- good food and good friends.

The whole gang: Jed, David, Geraldine, Cole & the Hoornaerts

Investing at REI -- stove, pot, bowls, knives...

Today, Friday, we had to say our goodbyes, but not before a couple games of stick pin bowling. Apparently, this is a version of bowling unique to this area. It's just like traditional bowling except the pins are narrow straight sticks (there's much less pin action), the balls are about half the size, there are no finger holes, and you get three for each frame.  I just wish I could say I upped my game.  

As much as we’d love to hang out longer, we’re feeling some pressure to get underway.  If we can complete the approximately 4300 mile trip in 13 weeks -- 330 mi/wk -- that would be a pretty good accomplishment for us, especially compared to what we did last summer -- 1900 miles in 8 weeks or 240 miles per week. I'm sure this is a good idea; what could go wrong?

Farewell Ecuador

To Guayaquil, Ecuador -- Mon-Tues, April 24-25

We found a nice breakfast spot in town yesterday so we could have a nice meal with Zoe before catching the bus back to the coast. It was a treat to have a chance to visit her and Isabela. 

It rained most of the way on our four-hour ride back to Guayaquil, and we passed some pretty impressive landslides on the way. Since Meg had booked a room using credit card points, our accommodations -- the Wyndham -- were a bit nicer than normal.  Strategically, the hotel is not too far from the airport.

Although Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador, it’s not really a prime tourist destination.  Even if it was, I’m not sure we’d be up for seeing many sights at this point.  Our sights, as it were, are now firmly set on the next phase of our trip -- a short little bike jaunt from Boston to San Jose!  Yikes. Meg and I, and more importantly, the kids, are up for it, but it will no doubt be more demanding than what we attempted last summer in Europe.  

Luckily, there was a nice pool on the tenth floor of the hotel, which gave us a way to occupy some of our time.  Dinner last night and breakfast this morning were at the fairly upscale hotel restaurant… we're lazy, and it was easy.  We, in fact, only ventured out once, and that was today, just to walk along the waterfront near the hotel and wander into a few art galleries along the narrow adjoining streets.  

Of course, it wouldn’t be normal without a little check-in excitement tonight for our 9 p.m. flight.  As soon as we walked into the terminal, I realized we didn’t have our laptop. Doh!  Meg, and then I, had been using it up by the pool just before we headed back to the room to get our bags Not really the end of the world, but definitely a bit of the drag.  I quickly called back to the hotel and asked if someone could check by the pool.  They had it, and we were early, so I took figured there was a good chance I could make it to the hotel and back before the flight.  I handed over my backpack, gave Kylie her passport (which I normally carry) and told everyone to get on the flight even if I wasn't there.  These we ideal conditions -- we had friends picking us up in Boston and absolutely no commitment once we got there. Even if I ended up on another flight, no big deal.

After struggling to find the correct airport exit, I frantically flagged down a taxi, explained the situation in my limited Spanish (poor at best), and we were off.  Fortunately, we were less than ten minutes away, traffic was reasonably light, and the driver took my situation seriously. Nothing like a little heart-pounding excitement to kick off the night.  Twenty-five minutes later, I was back in the terminal, through security, and into a mostly empty departure hall.  Meg, Dex, and Kylie were grabbing some last minute food and were amazed to see me so soon.  I’ll just chalk it up to good living!

Eleven months and one day ago, we left the US.  It's been fun and we've seen a ton. Time for the next phase.

Quenca

Cuenca, Ecuador -- Fri-Sat, April 21-23

A few weeks ago, through the miracle of the world wide web, Meg learned that her niece, Zoe, was actually living in Cuenca, Ecuador. That decided it. We had a few days between finishing our Galapagos tour on the 21st and our flight to Boston on the 25th. Just enough time for a few days in the third largest city in Ecuador, Cuenca, right in the heart of the Andes. 

Private parking

After our flight from Isla Baltra to Guayaquil on Friday, we eventually managed to find a bus at the huge two-story bus station heading to Cuenca. For some strange reason, the preferred entertainment option on the bus was an extremely violent, "shoot em up," gangster movies, no matter the women and children on board. Kylie and Dex tried to distract themselves, particularly during one disturbing torture scene, but with the sound blaring, it was hard to do. Even worse, the driver somehow forgot to turn on the ventilation system in the main cabin; in no time flat, the windows were completely fogged up and you could hardly breathe.

Still, we made it to the mountain town just as the sun was setting creating an otherworldly pink glow throughout the city as we started the mile walk to Zoe and her girlfriend, Isabella's, apartment.

It is always fun to see friends and family so far from away from home. We had missed out on the annual trip to Wisconsin this winter, so now had a chance to make up for it. And, we had the distinction of being the first to visit Zoe since she and Isabella had moved down just a few months ago.  

Because Zoe and Isabella needed to work on Saturday, teaching English at a nearby language school, we had a slow morning at the hotel before heading out for breakfast and a walk along the riverfront.

Once again we are at relatively high altitude, 8300 ft, and I can definitely feel it going up steps in the city. Cuenca is a nice city and has maintained much of its colonial character with its architecture and narrow brick streets. Once Zoe and Isabella were done with work, we met up to explore the small Inca ruins near the Pumapungo Museum. The ruins are very small and consist mainly of the stone foundations of a half dozen houses (no pictures). 

Blue dome of the Catedral Nuevo

Main door, Catedral Nuevo

There was, however, an area dedicated to the growing of tradition crops and also a small bird zoo.

Afterwards, we inadvertently wandered into the main floor of the museum where a plant exhibition was being held. There had apparently been a competition since ribbons had been awarded in dozens of different categories -- bonzai trees, cactus, and even massive floral arrangements.

Before we even got to Cuenca, Dex and Kylie had asked specifically if Zoe and Isabella had any board games. As a result, they couldn't wait to get back to play. We ended up playing a game called Dixie, which is something like Apples To Apples except with a fun set of quirky dreamlike pictures on each card.

Today (Sunday), we decided to venture a little farther afield and took a bus to the Cajas National Park. We never quite found the trail we were looking for, so ended up doing an out and back trek instead of a loop.

For some reason, my energy level was incredibly low. Hopefully, this doesn't bleed over into the bike riding portion of the trip, or we won't be getting very far.

Small, unopened flowers

To celebrate our last night in town, Zoe and Isabella volunteered to cook dinner. Their apartment building has an interesting covered kitchen and eating area built in at the end of the inner courtyard All the residents share the space and keep food in three refrigerators. When we arrived at 7:30, they were hard at work. We got to meet two friends, brothers Sergio and Omar. They were very friendly but didn't seem to grasp that we could just barely follow their 100mph Spanish.

Despite Zoe’s concerns that the sauces were not quite right or the food insufficiently seasoned, it was a wonderful meal -- roasted broccoli, mashed potatoes, and a delivered roast chicken. Judging from the number of chicken eateries in town, chicken is clearly a mainstay of the Ecuadorian diet.

We finished off the evening with a new game, Sushi Go. If you a sushi fan, this might be the game for you.